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Healdsburg Wineries

Gallo of Sonoma Winery

320 Center St., Healdsburg (Sonoma County), California; Tel. 707.433.2458

Best known for the convenience-store staples Thunderbird, Boones Farm, Hearty Burgundy and Ripple, Gallo has, since the mid-'80s, worked to create a premium line of wines worthy of something more than a screw top and change from a $5 bill.

Also, a spring visit to Gallo of Sonoma's Frei Ranch estate (where we sampled a number of the Estate and Reserve wines) was shockingly pleasant. I fell a little in love with the much-maligned brand and was gently guided by the kindest of pourers, who described each of the zesty reds and a particularly tasty Chardonnay in great detail.

There are clearly some great wines in the upper price range. The estate Cabs and Frei and Stephani Vineyard single vineyard Cabs were dynamite. Those, however, weren't what I tasted in Healdsburg. The 2001 Laguna Vineyard Chardonnay was like licking the inside of a barrel. Oak, oak and oak--and for $24, I expect a little more complexity. The 2003 Gallo of Sonoma Pinot Gris ($11) lacked character, as did the 2001 Two Rock Pinot Noir which had little of the earthy, dark fruit flavor you'd expect from a $28 pinot.

The 2000 Frei Vineyard Zinfandel ($22) was also bland and failed to deliver on a promise of black pepper spice and ripe berries. The 2000 Barrelli Creek Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) was the best of the bunch, with nice warm tannins but still failed to live up to the memories of its meatier cousins we had tasted last spring. If you go, try the Taste of the Gallo Family Library, which includes the estate wines. --Heather Irwin

Gallo of Sonoma Winery. 320 Center St., Healdsburg (Sonoma County), California; Tel. 707.433.2458. Open Sunday-Wednesday, 11am-5pm; Thursday through Saturday, 11am-7pm. Tasting fees vary.