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Foppiano Vineyards

12707 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg (Sonoma County), California; Tel. 707.433.7272

A 100-(plus)-year-old winery nestled in the heart of the Russian River Valley, Foppiano has weathered more than a century of winemaking and come up with a recipe for some simple, yet incredibly nice, reds that don't need a million dollar marketing machine to sell.

One of the mysteries I've yet to figure out at countless wineries is why one has to endure glass after glass of what Foppiano winery doesn't do well before you get to what it excels at. In fact, despite being wonderfully affable, the tasting-room staff never even suggested that we try the Petite Sirah--the winery's flagship. Ah, well, being the intrepid drinkers that we are, we stumbled upon it anyway.

Foppiano's 2002 Russian River Valley Petite Sirah ($23) is a luscious, spicy, bold hussy of a wine with hints of cinnamon and chocolate. This wine could easily age for several more years to ease up some of the tannins, but it's still nicely drinkable. The 2002 Bacigalupi Russian River Valley ($17.50) is also a well-bodied wine that has a more earthy nose, but a bright, fruity flavor. Also yummy were the 2001 Russian River Merlot ($15), with a surprising spicy green-peppery nose and a gentle finish, and the 2001 Alexander Valley Sangiovese ($17.50). -- Heather Irwin

Foppiano Vineyards. 12707 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg, California; Tel. 707.433.7272. Open daily, 10 am to 4:30pm. No tasting fee.